Needlepoint Finishing Guide

Finishing is what happens after the last stitch. It is the process of turning a completed needlepoint canvas into an actual object — a pillow, an ornament, a framed piece, a belt. The work includes blocking the canvas back into shape, trimming the margins, and constructing the final item.

Most stitchers send their work to a professional finisher. This is not a sign of weakness. Finishing is a separate craft with its own tools, materials, and techniques. A beautifully stitched canvas can look mediocre if it is poorly finished, and a decent canvas can look stunning with expert finishing. The finisher is your partner, not a shortcut.

Your local needlepoint shop (LNS) almost certainly works with one or more finishers and can coordinate the entire process. Many shops will help you select finishing options, cording, backing fabric, and trim. They ship the canvas, track the order, and call you when it comes back. It is worth asking about this even if you plan to DIY some items.

Pillow

The classic finishing choice. Knife-edge for a clean, flat look. Box-edge for a structured, three-dimensional shape. Most stitchers add cording — twisted cord in a matching or contrasting color finishes the seam beautifully. Backing fabric is typically velvet or linen. Velvet reads as more formal; linen is lighter and more casual. A well-finished pillow on a sofa is the single most satisfying way to display your work.

Ornament

Padded, trimmed, and fitted with a hanging cord. Holiday ornaments are an enormous part of needlepoint culture — many stitchers complete a new set every year. Finishing typically includes batting for shape, a backing fabric, and decorative trim around the edges. Finishers can add a monogram, a date, or a ribbon bow. If you stitch ornaments regularly, find a finisher whose style you love and stick with them.

Framed

The simplest option for displaying needlepoint. The blocked canvas is stretched over a rigid backing and set into a frame. You can frame under glass (protects from dust and UV) or without glass (shows the texture better). Shadow box framing is ideal for dimensional stitches or heavily beaded work that needs depth. Museum glass eliminates glare and blocks UV — worth the extra cost for pieces you want to last decades.

Belt

Needlepoint belts are a staple of the preppy wardrobe. The canvas must be sized to your exact waist measurement — your finisher or shop will help calculate this before you start stitching. The finished belt gets a leather backing, brass hardware, and a leather tip. Belt finishing is a specialized skill; not every finisher does it. Expect a higher cost and longer turnaround.

Stand-Up

A three-dimensional figure with a weighted base so it stands on its own. Extremely popular for holiday figures: Santas, nutcrackers, snowmen, nativity scenes. The construction involves padding, shaping, and often multiple stitched panels assembled together. These make incredible mantel displays and become family heirlooms.

Tote and Clutch

Lined, structured bags with the needlepoint as a decorative panel. High-end finishers produce stunning results with leather trim, quality hardware, and interior pockets. A needlepoint clutch from a skilled finisher is a genuine luxury item. These take time and cost accordingly, but they are among the most impressive finished pieces you can carry.

Stocking

Christmas stockings are a major project from start to finish. The canvas is large, the stitching takes months, and the finishing involves lining, a cuff (often monogrammed), and a hanging loop. Cuffed stockings with velvet or silk cuffs look particularly elegant. Plan your timeline carefully — start stitching in January if you want a finished stocking by December.

Coaster and Tray Insert

Acrylic or wooden inserts sized to fit your stitched canvas. Quick to finish and satisfying for small projects. Many companies sell blank inserts in standard sizes — you trim the canvas, fold the edges under, and drop it into the insert. This is one of the easiest finishing methods to do yourself at home.

Accessories

Eyeglass cases, scissors fobs, key fobs, luggage tags, phone cases. Small, quick to stitch, and useful. These are ideal for gifts and for trying out new stitches or designers without committing to a large project. Finishing is straightforward and relatively inexpensive.

Here is the honest truth. Professional finishing costs real money — $50 for a simple ornament, $150 or more for a pillow, and it goes up from there for complex items. The turnaround is measured in months, not days. And yet most experienced stitchers send their work to a finisher for anything they care about.

The reason is results. A professional finisher has the tools, materials, and skills to produce a pillow with perfectly squared corners, invisible seams, and cording that lies flat. They have commercial blocking equipment. They stock specialty fabrics and trims that you cannot easily buy retail. The difference between a DIY pillow and a professionally finished one is immediately visible.

That said, DIY finishing is perfectly reasonable for several situations:

• Practice pieces where you are learning
• Simple framing (stretch over board, pop in frame)
• Coasters and tray inserts using pre-made blanks
• Quick ornaments for personal use
• Any item where the stakes are low and the learning is high

Your LNS is the best starting point for finding a finisher. Most shops have relationships with specific finishers and can show you samples of their work. You can also ask at your local chapter of the American Needlepoint Guild — the members will have strong opinions.

Before your canvas goes to a finisher (or before you finish it yourself), it needs some preparation. Skip these steps and you will compromise the final result.

Blocking

Stitching distorts canvas. Tent stitch and basketweave pull it into a parallelogram. Blocking is the process of wetting the canvas and pinning it back to its original square shape. Mist the back with water (or soak briefly for severe distortion), pin it to a blocking board using rustproof pins, and let it dry completely — usually 24 to 48 hours. Some stitchers block themselves; most professional finishers include blocking in their service.

Cleaning

Hands transfer oils to canvas over months of stitching. Light soiling is normal and usually comes out during the blocking process. For heavier soiling, use cool water and a tiny amount of wool wash. Lay flat to dry on a clean towel. Never wring, twist, or machine wash. Test for colorfastness first — some hand-painted canvas inks can bleed.

Trimming

Do not trim your canvas close to the stitching. Leave at least one and a half to two inches of bare canvas on all sides. Your finisher needs that margin for construction. If you have already trimmed too close, tell your finisher — they may be able to work with it, but your options will be limited. When in doubt, leave the full margin and let the finisher cut to their needs.

What to Send to Your Finisher

The stitched canvas with full margins. A note describing what you want (pillow, ornament, framing, etc.). Any specific requests for backing fabric, cording color, or trim. Some finishers want you to choose materials from their selection — ask before sending. Include your contact information and a clear return address.