Needlepoint Stitch Library
The stitches you'll actually use, organized by type. Whether you're filling a background or adding texture to a focal area, this is your reference.
Tent Stitches (The Foundation)
Every needlepointer learns these first. They all look the same from the front -- small diagonal stitches covering one canvas intersection -- but they behave differently on the back, and that matters more than you'd think.
Continental
Diagonal over one intersection, worked in horizontal rows. The first stitch most people learn. Creates a firm, even texture with good coverage. One downside: it pulls the canvas on the diagonal, so expect some distortion on larger areas. Compensate with stretcher bars or plan on blocking when you're done.
Basketweave
Same appearance as continental from the front, but worked diagonally in alternating ascending and descending rows. Much less canvas distortion -- that's the whole point. This is the go-to stitch for backgrounds and any large area. Takes practice to get the rhythm of knowing which direction you're traveling, but once it clicks, you'll never go back to continental for big fills.
Half Cross
Looks like continental from the front but uses less thread -- the back is thinner. Not as padded or durable. Fine for areas that won't see wear, like wall hangings or ornaments where thread economy matters. Don't use it on anything that will be sat on or handled.
Decorative Stitches
These are what make needlepoint more than just filling in a coloring book. Each creates a distinct texture and pattern that catches light differently than tent stitch.
Scotch Stitch
Square blocks of graduated diagonal stitches -- short, medium, long, medium, short. Works in 3x3 or 4x4 grids. Adds beautiful raised texture that catches light. Probably the first decorative stitch you should learn because the motion is exactly the same as tent stitch, just longer. Fantastic for water, sky, clothing, or any area that needs visual interest.
Cashmere Stitch
Think of it as a rectangular scotch stitch -- instead of a perfect square, the block is slightly elongated. Creates an elegant, slightly raised texture with a subtle directional quality. Works well for roofs, paths, fabric textures, and any area where you want a refined pattern.
Mosaic Stitch
The smallest of the scotch stitch family -- just a 2x2 grid. Short, long, short. Creates a subtle checkerboard-like texture that works beautifully for backgrounds when you want something more interesting than basketweave but not as bold as scotch stitch. Stitches up quickly.
Byzantine Stitch
Stepped diagonal pattern that creates a striking zigzag across the canvas. Easier than it looks once you get the count right -- it's just groups of diagonal stitches that step down or across at regular intervals. Gorgeous for large decorative areas. Works especially well in two alternating colors.
Long Stitches
Straight stitches covering multiple canvas threads. They fill area fast and create clean, orderly patterns. Good for when you want coverage without a lot of texture.
Brick Stitch
Vertical stitches over two threads, offset like brickwork in alternating rows. Clean and orderly. One of the quickest fills for large areas like skies, backgrounds, or water. The uniform pattern recedes visually, which makes it a good supporting stitch that won't compete with focal areas.
Hungarian Stitch
A diamond pattern of short-long-short vertical stitches with a space between each group. Creates a lovely textured surface that's more interesting than brick stitch but still well-behaved. Works beautifully in two colors for a patterned fill. Quick to stitch once you establish the rhythm.
Gobelin Stitch
Straight stitches over two or more canvas threads, either upright or slightly slanted. About as simple as it gets -- just parallel lines. Covers canvas fast and creates a smooth, almost woven appearance. Good for architectural elements, borders, and anywhere you want quick, even coverage.
Bargello
Bargello is its own world within needlepoint. The technique uses counted vertical stitches (usually over four canvas threads) arranged in wave, flame, or geometric patterns. Traditionally worked in graduated color sequences -- five or six shades of the same color family stepping from light to dark.
The first row is the hardest because you're establishing the pattern from scratch. Every row after that just follows the one above in a new color. This is what makes bargello both mathematical and meditative -- once the pattern is set, you can stitch almost on autopilot.
Bargello covers canvas quickly, looks impressive, and is genuinely addictive. Some stitchers never go back to painted canvases after discovering it. You can work from charted patterns or go free-form if you're feeling adventurous. Either way, the results are striking.
Specialty & Dimensional Stitches
These add the "wow" factor. Used sparingly, they bring a canvas to life with real three-dimensional texture.
French Knot
Wrap the thread around your needle (once or twice), then push back through the canvas right next to where you came up. Creates a small raised dot. Perfect for eyes, flower centers, berries, and textured fills like sheep or snow. Takes practice to keep them consistent -- thread conditioner helps with the wrap.
Turkey Work
A looped stitch that creates shag or fringe when cut. Leave the loops intact for a curly texture, or cut them for a fuzzy, fur-like surface. Used for hair, animal fur, grass, Santa beards -- anything that should look fluffy. Work from the bottom of the area up so you don't crush the loops as you stitch.
Couching
Lay a thread (or group of threads) across the canvas surface, then tack it down with small stitches at regular intervals. Ideal for outlines, decorative borders, and metallic threads that are too stiff or fragile to pass through the canvas repeatedly. Also works with ribbon and other specialty fibers.
Choosing Stitches for Your Project
A common mistake is going overboard with stitch variety. A canvas with twelve different stitches doesn't look sophisticated -- it looks chaotic. Here are some guidelines that actually work:
- Backgrounds get basketweave or a subtle fill -- brick stitch, mosaic, or Hungarian. The background should support the design, not compete with it.
- Focal areas get decorative stitches -- scotch, cashmere, or Byzantine add texture that draws the eye where you want it.
- Mix textures, not just patterns -- a smooth basketweave background next to a raised scotch stitch creates visual depth through contrast.
- Three to four stitches per project is plenty for most designs. A background stitch, one or two decorative stitches, and maybe a specialty stitch for a small detail.
- Consider the thread, not just the stitch -- a simple tent stitch in an overdyed silk looks completely different than the same stitch in wool. Thread choice does as much work as stitch choice.
If you're unsure, stitch the background first and live with it for a day before committing to decorative stitches. You'll have a better feel for what the canvas needs once the base is in.
Frequently Asked Questions
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